Wednesday, February 18, 2009

Session 15 - Feb 18 - LM

3:15 PM Joel: how was your best wave this morn
 me: my best wave was a right
  all the drops were pretty soft, slow takeoff
 Joel: sheesh remember how good we got W****** that time a month ago?
 me: i barely even got into it
3:16 PM Joel: man that was sweet
 me: but the brewer foam helped me in and once I was in
  I had it dialed, and it walled up real nice
 Joel: anyhow slow takeoffs eh, mushburgers
 me: one of those waves where you see the whole thing in front of you
 Joel: cooooooooooo'
 me: just a wall
 Joel: aaaaahhh yeah
 me: so I sped along it and tweaked the board up a bit higher for speed
  and made it past that sectioning wall
 Joel: dang what a champ
 me: and then a little turn off the top, maybe a tiny bit of spray
3:17 PM and then back into the wave
 Joel: more like 5 gallons
 me: and then got clipped a bit by the lip
  but recovered
 Joel: barrelled
 me: and then was trying to get back down the face
  and fell forward, right on my face.
 Joel: flying body surf exit
 me: yeah, except I fell forward into the wave
3:18 PM If i hadn't fallen coulda probably kept going a bit further
  but, I was pretty far in already
  not sure if it was just going to close out completely but
  I don't think it was, think I coulda gotten past that and made a clean exit
 Joel: coulda launched an air
 me: but I fell on my face instead
  yeah, maybe an air
  so that was a good wave.
3:19 PM and yes a month ago at W****** that was good.
 Joel: really good
 me: extremo good
 Joel: like once ever 5 years good
3:20 PM me: ha, it was good
  like once every 5 months good
 Joel: what made it so good is nobody was on it
 me: it gets good there a lot
 Joel: i'd say way more than every 5 months
  i'd say at least year
 me: yes. that was kind of rare.
  well, very rare.
  pretty sweet.
  this morning was fun. Not very crowded either.
3:23 PM Joel: cool

1 comment:

Josh said...

Sounds sick! I think you should just go with Joel's version