Monday, September 29, 2008
Friday, September 26, 2008
Thursday, September 25, 2008
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
Monday, September 22, 2008
Friday, September 19, 2008
So Colin lured me and a few others up to Ocean Beach last night, promising head-high glassy barrels. Oh but he lies, he lies, I rushed out of work, picked up Ramin, dropped off Ramin, got lost on my way to the beach, parked, suited up, sprinted over the sand dune to be greeted by...
waist to shoulder warbly dumpy closeouts.
But you make the most of it, and it actually was a pretty fun short session, enjoyable evening with a couple friends on our own little section of beach, everybody got a few waves, and I'm being a bit dramatic here, conditions weren't awful. Fun to be out there, I like that we were able to go out there, be as loud as we want, surf as bad as we want, and just enjoy a nice early fall/late summer evening in the water with a few friends. Trade-offs -- you'd be hard pressed to get that in Santa Cruz, just another normal evening at OB. And yes, Colin did warn us that the wind had picked up and those barrels probably wouldn't be happening. So no worries, dude, I'll be back.
I'll especially be back for pizza, beer, and buffalo wings, good call on getting some food after the session. Fun times.
Monday, September 15, 2008
Well, surf wasn't that exciting but I needed the cleansing. Partied like it was 2002 while in NYC, old man out on the town! So good to be home and back to a little nature and good clean exercising fun...rode bike over to the hook and went on out. Not toooo crowded as not really much surf, but a fun enough ride every now and again and good as always just to be out there.
After surf went and had dinner on the wharf in Capitola...enjoyed the sunset and some fish n' chips, plus this guy here on the left who we ran into on the way. Nice birdie!
Friday, September 12, 2008
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
But somehow I doubt it. Flight attendant did tell me the surf was firing the last couple days due to the hurricane, but alas no longer. Can't have it all I guess.
Wow, good surf continues, more people on it this night, surfline effect, but wow wow what a wave when the did come through. Caught some good ones and watched a lot more really good ones, killin' it. So much surf talent in this town, I've said this before but it's like sharing the basketball court with Brandon Roy. Or some other NBA player. Impressive to watch. Not to say I wouldnt object if they all disappeared and I got to get those waves myself, now that'd be something else .
Fun session and some great waves. Life is good. Joel came over and joined me and stayed the night on the couch lazytown style.
Monday, September 8, 2008
Holy southswell batman! Whew! Wave mania! Wave after wave after wave, fun session at 38th to end the day. Swell really filled in, and a day early to boot, so the surfline masses weren't all on it quite yet and actually got more or less my pick of the waves. Mix up an occasional left to go with the long rights, sharing a little bit, everybody happy, everybody wins. Surfed the 9'8 barge and that thing is a behemoth on a solid wave, fun to ride although slow to turn, but to each board it's own...if I was good, I'd be camped out on the nose of that thing, just hanging out, taking in the scenery, maybe roasting a marshmallow, making some smores...noseriding machine. As it is though, my skills are progressing, was able to make a few forays into near-nose territory...maybe about 6 inches or so from the tip...fun waves. Couple paddles, make the drop, crank the slow bottom turn back up to the face of the wave, set your line, cross-step (or in my case, waddle) to the (almost) nose, and cruise.
Fun surf, there's no place like home when the surf is good.
Bennett surf school, open for business again...this time Cory and James from work made the visit down to SC, the kids wanted to surf so surf we did. To get away from the weekend mob we drove 15 minutes to a not-very-good but not-very-crowded beach break and threw 'em in the water. Surf was as mentioned above not that good, but for a couple first timers, just being able to find your own stretch of beach, paddle out, and catch wave after wave of whitewater to the beach is as good a way as any to start out.
After they decided they had mastered that skill, and the wind had blown out our already mediocre surf even more, we packed up and did the in-wetsuit drive back home. These guys were frothing to surf more, wanted some real surf, so we paddled right on out at 38th. Surf working actually kind of decent, so we sat between 2nd peak and 38th in kind of no-mans land, but occasionally a wave would sneak on through. Cory caught one, got up, and was pumped on that.
After a good long day of sun and surf we came in, had a beer, got some dinner and sent the city kids back on their way.
Joel drove over to hunt down some waves on Saturday morning. Convinced him to make an initial stop at LazyTown and we carpooled a bit north. After a couple spotchecks, we settled on a spot. Made the hike down to the beach, past the hippie camp, across the beach, and into the water. Fun, glassy, somewhat inconsistent but really fun when they came shoulder highish peaks, light crowd for most of the time, and fun waves...good to surf with Joel.
Thursday, September 4, 2008
There, that's a bit more like it...was just a day early yesterday. This morning delivered a lot more punch, pretty fun morning...I'll go out on a limb and call it almost as good as LM gets, for a while at least when the tide was just right. Actually I'll have to go back on that a bit -- I've seen LM better -- but this was pretty good. Clean, glassy surf, as always deal with the closeouts and you'll get an open face eventually. Waves had enough juice behind them that you could get into it early enough, even on the 6'6, to get a pretty solid ride.
Got reports of epic conditions at OB tonight from the SF surf crew, starting to sound a lot like fall is here...
Update: I just got convinced to go tomorrow morning. I hope it lives up to the hype!
Update Update: I slept through the morning dawn patrol. zzzzzzzz
Back to LM! It's been a while, time to get back to my roots, good ol' LM pre-work dawn patrol...south swell in the forecast thought maybe I could get a little jump on it...seems I was a little bit overanxious, but still a fun enough start to the morning. Can't beat this sunshine, beautiful place to call home.
Long weekend = lots of surf. Every weekend should be 3 days.
Ramin and Josh came by again and we cruised up north a bit. Surfed beach break #1 until the wind killed it, then went up the coast a bit further for some more protection. Not a whole lot to speak of happening out there, but still fun, still sunny, and still surfing, enough to keep me happy. Every now and then a little set would roll through, an occasional makeable shoulder.
Wednesday, September 3, 2008
Saturday Aug 30, 11-1, 9'8 Junod
Bennett Bros Surf Academy is open for business.
This past Labor Day weekend had Matt and Erica make the drive down from Corvallis for the OSU-Stanford football opener Thursday night. I won't blog any further about that -- although honestly I kind of root for both teams (and even wear both tshirts). The real fun got started on Saturday, when they came over to the beach for a required Lazy Town visit, bringing along with them the rest of the Bay Area Oregonian contingent: Mat, Yosuke, Joel...full house. But we're always happy to play host and have some visitors, fire up the BBQ, pitch the tent in the yard, the sleeping mats inside on the floor, stock the fridge, and do what we do best -- enjoy the fun and the sun of another beautiful Santa Cruz weekend.
Of course it goes without saying, no visit to Lazy Town / (the real) Surf City USA is complete without a surf session or two, so dragged the land-lubbers out to the beach. In pursuit of uncrowded waves, we drove down the coast just a little bit, and found what we were looking for...sand, sun, and nearly empty waves. Unfortunately you can't have it all, so our waves tended to be of the closeout variety, but one thing this ragtag surf crew is certainly not lacking for is cajones...those maniacs were throwing themselves into anything and everything. If it wasn't double overhead and about to whomp on the sand, they weren't going for it...all out!!! :) That's how we roll! Nicely done. (Yes, I exaggerate slightly. But -- not that much. These guys are animals!). It was really fun way to spend the afternoon, everybody got some waves, and I'll have to admit...I fear the Bennett Bros Surf Academy may very well have graduated a few more full-fledge surf-starved kooks to crowd a future lineup near you...but come on, can you blame them?
Another nice bonus of visitors, especially visitors with high quality camera gear, is you come out with lots of photos...so I'll end this now and let the photos do the rest. Thanks to Mat and Yos (And Selin and Erica) for snapping (and sharing), and thanks to everybody for coming to visit. Come back anytime -- you know where the surfboards are.